Review – Kricket Soho

Indian food is my absolute favourite. It is one of the top cuisines us Brits eat but I’ve always wondered why no one has developed a chain of restaurants using this amazing food when it’s been done for Italian, Chinese, Spanish and many others (even Lebanese!) Maybe no chef felt they could modernise it. Thankfully, that’s changing. The entry of the likes of Dishoom and Kricket into the restaurant scene shows the appetite for great, modern, inventive Indian food. I finally got round to visiting Kricket in Soho, just behind Piccadilly Circus, to try a little lunch.

The ubiquitous ‘counter around the kitchen’ arrangement abounds with a couple of booths and proper tables downstairs – but it is small and at certain times you will be lucky if you get a table. The counter service is brilliant for families I think as kids will love seeing where their food comes from and being able to interact with the chefs.

On my day of visit they had some equipment issues so certain menu items were not available but this didn’t stop me from sampling some real delights from a new menu recently introduced.

There is a perfectly formed range of breads, veggie, fish and meat ‘small plates’ for sharing (or not!) and a couple of puds. A decent drinks menu is in place too with local beers.

I had the samphire pakoras as a starter, which were perfectly balanced in terms of saltiness and spice.

Kricket Samphire Pakoras

My rabbit keema pao was simply wonderful, with salli potato and carrot pickle really bringing the whole dish together.

Kricket Rabbit Keema Pao

My colleagues had the smoked sweet potato, which was enormous and drizzling in ‘gunpowder’ relish and crispy onions, and the Kerela fried chicken. I was a little jealous of them, as it looked fantastic, apparently tasted amazing and I wish I’d had the room to order one for myself.

This is a quick-dining Indian experience with a menu drawing from all the great regions of Indian food, creating simple dishes full of flavour, aroma and different textures. The service was efficient and friendly and the bill highly reasonable (I should have had the chicken too!) Highly recommended – if you can get a seat!

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